Yendigaia

Yendigaia.

So 45nm further West down the Patagonian Canals than Pt Williams is a Fjord Called Yendigaia. It was Quite windy as we headed West down the Beagle Channel. In fact Quite Raw.. But after we proceeded up the Fjord a few miles we found a nice flatwater, if not a completely quiet wind anchorage. All Guests piled ashore for one of the famous 2 hour walks that turned into a 3 hour marathon.! .but it was enjoyed by all and it did Whet the appetite for Dinner..

Ashore was an Abandoned Estancia or farm. Subsistence here must have been tough. In the old days.

Horn Lighthouse

So this is the 2nd or 3rd of the lighthouses. built over the Years.. They moved this one closer to the landing point and to give it more protection. It used to be out on the point where it could be seen from all directions. The Authorities felt it was to high to be seen through the bad weather prevailing. The staff felt it was too far from the Station to maintain properly.. However in the new location it can not be seen when approaching from the West!!

Cape Horn

We all have heard of the Cape Horn..It is the stuff of legend, at least in my family..We arrived in a stiff wind and strong Swell but right, and I mean right under the lighthouse We found a nice lee and water flat enough to anchor. We got our little Tender ashore with some guests and crew. The walk was steep up the stairs to the Lighthouse, the Monument and the Chilean Naval station. There is a Chilean family of 5 that live out here all the time. Nice place to go to school but very remote…

Cape Horn did not disappoint. And an hour later the wind filled again and we had to move on up to Puerto Williams.

Photo by Mark Colville

Cape Horn and the Drake

So the trip across..What to say. It was certainly as rough as our trip down, more wind and bigger seas but on the beam. So 2 reefs in the Main and the Staysail and we averaged 11kts. Winds to the mid 40’s made it seem all too real.. The 7.0m and 25’ seas were fairly daunting but the Albatross flying around kept our attention. The trip over took about 60 hours as we were trying to time our arrival at the Horn between two lows. Somehow We made the target.

Shackleton Whisky for that Special occasion..

A gift from Catherine’s Father..(one of our Stewardess’s) for a special occasion. and this was it. 3 Birthdays all on the 20th January and a crossing of the Antarctic Circle. Happy Birthday, Catherine, Richard and Dr Paul..

The cake was a Panetone with Passion Fruit Icecream inside and a Dark Chocolate Glaze…Awsome..

Photos by Raya

Polar Plunge at Midnight

Before Departure ..The crew went mad and all decided to jump in the water before we left Antarctica. It was midnight, the water temp was -5c or 32.5f.. but they went in, Twice!! Not me though. I just watched.

Antarctic Circle

South 200nm to the Antarctic Circle 66.30.666 s and 68.00.00w

We departed at Midnight and into a fair sea state. A bit rolly and swoopy due to no wind to offset the sea state but we cruised south through the night and the next day and arrived finally at the Antarctic Circle timed at 1900. Just in time for a celebration with some Shackleton Whisky (google it) Champagne and a toast for a great achievement.. Dinner South of the Antarctic circle followed.. before we High tailed it Northward towards Cape Horn 680nm away.

Cathedral Ice

We left Paradise Bay for the Melchoirs where we wanted to prep the boat for the trip 200nm South to the Antarctic Circle. The trip over to the Melchoirs was not bad for ice but as we approached the entrance we found this most beautiful Ice berg stuck in the channel. We had to creep around it in the shallows to get in. The spire was much taller than out 60m , 200’ masts.. and without the masts Rosehearty would have fit through the hole..

Photo by Raya Hutchison

Paradise Bay

We moved Rosehearty from Port Lockroy to cruise over in Paradise Bay. Only 20nm away but with ice all around and heavy snow the going was tough. Eventually the sky cleared and we entered the Bay and what a wonderland. Ice floes, big and small. Dramatic scenery as a back drop, and just us ohh yes.. and some other inhabitants

We found a group of seals and Penguins hanging out on a floe and nudged Rosehearty up to it and they, the inhabitants could not have cared less..

Photo by Raya Hutchison

Zandaam

Even the Cruise ships come down here and there are many of them..

Small and Medium.. this is one of the bigger ones and they do not like navigating here in the ice any more than we do!! We are all fragile when faced with big ice.

Uma's titties

Yes that is what these rock Mountains on the NE end of Lemaire channel are called

Port Lockroy to Lemaire

Port Lockroy to the Kodak Gap or Lemaire Channel

Well we knew the weather was not going to be terrific and we also already knew we could not transit the Straits. However we had to go and at least look. So we went South East and joined the queue behind a Russian Ice class ship and had the Zandaam a cruise ship fall in behind us. We got to the entrance of the straits our Russian friend pushed on through the Zaandam and we turned around. However what we saw in the weather breaks was magnificent.

Roshearty With Ice please.

Actually it looks worse from the bridge than it does up here. But this is about max for us.

Photo by Richard Smith

Port Lockroy to Palmer Station

Palmer Station is the only Northern peninsula Base that is US operated. It is the real deal. All year round and real science. We all loved the experience, and the trip there and back to Lockroy was a real challenge through ice but we did get it done. After the visit to the Station we had a great trip ashore and saw Sooo…many Penguins..

Photo by Raya Hutchison

To Port Lockroy.

From the Melchoirs We headed back down Neuymayer Channel to Port Lockroy. We had a visit here to the old British Base. However 1st we went on a tender tour to another bay and a good walk ashore with Penguins, and Seals and lots of Snow

There are a few of these old bases around.. mostly decaying. However here We got a nice walking tour, and better yet into the gift shop. Where yes they do take credit cards..

See Ya all later.!

Going back to the Family..

Mr Humpback...

In Wilhelmena Bay we had a terrific experience with a Humpback family. While Mom and baby Napped on the Surface, Dad we think, came over and gave us a show..Literally right under and around the boat for 15 minutes. Then just at the end he Spy Hopped to check us out face to face...and then satisfied he had done a good job with his Audience he dove away..

Camping Anyone.?

We decided to make sure We were familiar with the Tent set up of which We have 4 and fit everyone to there sleeping bags etc. Better to do now than in the wind and with Mittens on. These new Tents from Northface take 10 minutes to get together including the waterproof fly sheet. The plan to camp ashore for a night..

Trinity to Melchoir via Wilhelmena Bay

The trip down to Wilhelmena Bay had some Icebergs and brashy bits and some whales in the distance, probably Humpbacks. We wound our way through the increasing floes and found a nice flat one for one of our guests to plant the St Francis yacht club flag on.

You are Kidding.!!

We were up early as usual and headed out through Neptunes Bellows...Great Name... and we had traffic to contend with both in and out!!. The pass is narrow maybe 100m but you can not see underwater..and add to the fact there was a large Iceberg floating around outside in the Fairway it made for an interesting departure.. However, We set off South for Trinity Island. The wind was fair so...Oh no the sails were Frozen to there stays and we could not get them to come out. That has never happened!! The snow and freezing rain had turned them in to blocks of ice..So we proceeded under faithful Staysail and 1 motor. We arrived to Mickelsen Harbour and with the bridge team, Markus on the depth and Brian on the Radar we slipped in to anchor. The whole area we are in notes as unsurveyed..So there was a keen appreciation for paying attention to the depth under the boat..

On arrival We set off kayaking to an Island about .75nm away where there were Gentoo Penguins and Weddell Seals.., A good walk around in snow shoes...Another great Day..

And at the end of the Day Who has a view out of the Bridge windows like this..